After wanting to visit Buenos Aires for the longest time I finally made it there in September. I had planned a trip there about 13 years ago that got cancelled at the very last minute…naturally, I had very high expectations but I can say I was not disappointed at all.
Even before my arrival, I had been warned to be careful with my belongings so I was bit concerned but, luckily, I had not one single incident during my stay. I had also been advised about the rudeness and arrogance of porteños but honestly I didn’t think they are any different from the residents of any big city, they may be more direct but often times that is the result of the fast pace they live in. I noticed the quick speed of this city does not prevent couples from being very affectionate in public though…something you rarely see here in the US.
Buenos Aires is certainly the mega cosmopolitan city everyone raves about. As such, it is a city full of contrasts, featuring a blend of old constructions and modern buildings, sometimes side by side, and that is part of its undeniable charm. While strolling through its streets and parks, at times I felt transported to somewhere in Europe, perhaps Paris or Barcelona, and at other times I felt I could be in one of the neighborhoods of Lima or Mexico City. I also found its population to be more diverse than I had expected, although the strong European influence is obvious.
I thought getting around Buenos Aires was pretty easy, considering how big of a city it is: from colectivos to trains to the subte, here are options if you prefer not to spend that much money on taxis. You can also visit places on foot…my friend Eliana and I did a LOT of walking…while we talked about life, of course! We walked from trendy Palermo to upscale Recoleta one day and then from bohemian San Telmo, where I met my heroine Mafalda, to Palermo the next day.
On a different day, we also walked to the trendy Puerto Madero and that day’s highlight was certainly enjoying a bondiola at the Costanera Sur. I enjoyed Buenos Aires’ restaurants and bars…I had so much meat and Malbec during my stay! Its cafes and bakeries are also amazing. Mmm, alfajores, facturas…a media luna with dulce de leche with a cortado, anyone?
One thing I loved about restaurants and cafes in Buenos Aires is that no one will bring you the check, unless you asked for it. Even if you just have a cup of coffee and you’re just reading a book or having a conversation with friends you won’t be bothered with the check if you didn’t ask for it. After living in the US for 4 ½ years and constantly feeling I’m being kicked out of restaurants as soon as I finish my meal, it was very refreshing to be left alone to enjoy time at my own rhythm.
Buenos Aires is also home to great shops and boutiques but clothes and shoes are quite expensive, especially if you’re used to the sale prices in the US. The bookstores in this city deserve a special mention though. Stopping by Eterna Cadencia, located in the heart of Palermo, was such a treat. With an extensive selection of books, at very reasonable prices, and a quaint café and lounge in the back, this bookstore is just beautiful and has such a great ambiance…it’s so cozy you could be in there for hours!
The saying “the night is still young” is also particularly true in Buenos Aires: on one hand, most restaurants are open until really late at night because porteños actually dine after 9pm, and on the other hand, the city features an unbelievable nightlife with bars and lounges for all tastes.
Of course, I cannot talk about Buenos Aires’ nightlife and not mention tango. Eliana took me to the Club Armenio’s La Viruta, where I had a taste of a real milonga. We got there close to 1am, on a Sunday night, but the place only got busy around 2am and the party kept going until 5am! It was totally worth being there that late though: I was blown away by the beauty of the couples performing such a sensual, intimate dance. I was totally seduced by it!
As expected, my trip to Buenos Aires also included a visit to the colorful Boca and El Caminito…hey, after all, I was a tourist! It was a rainy day so the place was not very crowded and that made it more enjoyable. There are tons of places that I was not able to see in this 6-day visit to this fantastic city but that certainly gives me an excuse to go back sometime in the future. I look forward to visiting mi Buenos Aires querido again one day!
